Hālawa Pineapple Co.

Hālawa Pineapple Co. grows a few thousand sugarloaf pineapple on a leeward slope outside Kaunakakai, on land that grew pineapple for the plantations a lifetime ago and then grew nothing for a long while in between.

Kawika and Lehua Naki ripen the fruit in the field — pale, low-acid, almost white inside — and put it up the week it's cut: a thick pineapple-ginger jam, a fermented pineapple chili, and a drinking shrub that bartenders on three islands now order by the case.

Molokaʻi makes very little for sale and is fierce about how it's represented. Hālawa is on the roster because the Nakis asked their neighbors first.